Skincare with Friends Episode 66. How to Use Vitamin C to Get Results (with Microneedling, Iontophoresis and Exfoliation), plus the Best Products on the Market According to Science

Experts agree that Vitamin C is generally considered a good addition to a skincare routine, but it comes with problems- it is unstable, so its difficult to formulate. Also, it will only absorb into the skin at all if it’s in a very acidic formula. So not only is it difficult for cosmetic scientists to formulate it, but also it’s difficult for users because it needs to be acidic it’s therefore irritating.

Studies show that Ascorbic Acid (also known as vitamin C or L-AA) is a great pairing with sunscreen particularly with vitamin E and Ferulic Acid as it helps reduce damaging free radicals in the skin. It also can help with skin texture, elasticity and lines. So it’s worth trying to incorporate it into your routine despite it’s difficulties. The ascorbic acid derivatives were created to overcome these difficulties. Derivatives like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Ethyl- L Ascorbic acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate may absorb into the skin but there isn’t good evidence that they convert to vitamin C once within the skin. That’s basically what we covered in the last vitamin C post. 

Based on the scientific studies, I read for the last episode these are the criteria for a great vitamin C product— pH less than 4, water based, concentration of 15% and above, with Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid. I did some googling and came up with this list of products that fit my criteria-

• Paula’s Choice C15 Booster £49 for 20ml
• SuperCerum 20% L-Ascorbic Acid £15.95 for 15ml
• Skinceuticals CE Ferulic 15% £129.89 for 30ml
• Drunk Elephant C-Firma 15% £69.40 for 30ml
• Geek and Gorgeous C-Glow 15% E10.50 for 30ml

If any listeners have any other products that fit the bill please let me know, I think I’ve read every ingredient list on the planet by now.

When I was writing up the blog post for the last episode, several more questions came to me that we didn’t have time to cover last time. So I went back to Google Scholar to find out.

• How to Enhance the Effect of Vitamin C/ Increase Absorbtion? 
• Should we use Vit C for Pigmentation? Is there scientific evidence that Vitamin C cures or prevents melasma?
• Could Vitamin C Help with Acne? What Does Science Have to Say about Vitamin C and Acne?
• Do the Vitamin C Derivatives Have Any Benefits at all? Should We Keep Using Them?

I’m going to split them into a few blog posts, here is the first Vitamin can C conundrum-

How to Get the Vitamin C into Our Skin so it Really works?

Since the absorption of vitamin C is a problem and barrier to it’s effect, I had a look at how skincare scientists tackle this and this might give us some tips for home use. 

One study says “There is a marked interest to find methods for efficient transepidermal delivery of vitamin C because it’s hydrophilic nature which eliminates this process” (Ishmael et al, 2019) So the fact that vit C doesn’t dissolve in oil is a big barrier to it getting into the skin and having an effect. Maybe there are ways to improve it’s absorbtion-

1. Iontophoresis– Lots of the studies on the effectiveness of vitamin C in skincare use iontophoresis as a way of getting vit c into the skin (scientists don’t appear confident in the ability of vitamin C to just absorb into the skin when applied). Iontophoresis is a process where a voltage gradient is applied to the skin. It’s commonly used to treat hyperhidrosis (excessive sweating). The electrical potential gradient induces changes in the arrangement of protein, lipid and water molecules. The structural changes caused by the electrical current, causes micropore formation in the top layer of the skin and assists the transport of charged drugs into the deeper skin layers.
2. Microneedling– A recent study showed significant and lasting effect using 20% L-Ascorbic Acid with 1.5mm Microneedle rollers on melasma. It involved 6 sessions 2 weeks apart the results were sustained for more than 3 months (Ishmael et al, 2019).

   

   There is another study  from last year which studied the effect of micro needling with 20% AA vs Tranexamic acid. The needles were 1.5mm again and there were 2 treatments 4 weeks apart. This showed improvement in melasma for both AA and tranexamic acid but the tranexamic acid had better results (Menon, 2020).
3. Mechanical or chemical exfoliation– The thinking behind this approach is that since the stratum corneum or dead skin layer is the barrier to vit c absorbing into the skin, removing it will help the vit c to absorb. This can be with either an alpha hydroxy acid peel or mechanically using dermabrasion or laser.

Most of the studies I read use one of these techniques to help get the Vit C into the skin, scientists know Vit C needs help to get it where it needs to go, but here we are out in the world just smearing it on our faces and expecting results.

How to Use These Advanced Vitamin C Application Techniques at Home

The techniques used in the studies mentioned above are all used under laboratory conditions by doctors, so how do we translate the findings to our advantage at home.

• Iontophoresis at home- This is going to be a tricky one to pull at home. There are some devices on the market aimed at reducing sweating mainly, they are quite expensive. I have a device called a Rio 60 Second Facelift that has an iontophoresis setting. I have no idea if it works, but Iontophoresis is basically it involves putting and electric current through the skin, so I can imagine that a faradic machine like the Rio 60 Second device would work kind of in the right way. I’ve been using it myself at home with The Ordinary L-Ascorbic Acid Powder, water and Resveratol and Ferulic, and it appears to help. I haven’t noticed the Vitamin C oxidising on my skin surface and causing blackheads, which is an issue I sometimes get. Safe to say, this is just a personal experiment and not scientific in anyway.
• Microneedling at home or at a clinic– Microneedling is something that some do at home, using derma rollers. I’m not really keen on the idea, it is impossible to know whether the tiny needles are really sharp or whether they are truly sterile. Also, the needles used in the study are 1.5mm long, this would absolutely cause pain and blood letting. You are such better off seeing a professional in a sterile environment. They will be able to use topical anaesthetic and a fresh derma roller or derma pen tip for each treatment. To use vitamin C with Microneedling, always apply your well formulated (like the ones listed above), pure Vitamin C AFTER Microneedling, not before.
• Exfoliation– There are light chemical peels you can use at home to remove the surface layer of dead skin, such as The Ordinary red AHA/BHA Peel, then applying the pure Vitamin C. This will help by removing the barrier to vitamin C getting into the skin. The only problem with this is how damn irritating it’s going to be for the skin. It would be something I would be very cautious of doing regularly, I certainly wouldn’t be exfoliating and applying pure vitamin C on a daily basis. It could be a weekly anti aging anti oxidant boosting treatment, and watch skin closely for signs of overdoing it, like redness and itching.

References

Ismail ESA, Patsatsi A, Abd el‐Maged, WM, Nada, EE‐DAE‐A. (2019) “Efficacy of microneedling with topical vitamin C in the treatment of melasma.” J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;00:1–6. https://doi.org /10.1111/jocd.12878

Menon A, Eram H, Kamath PR, Goel S, Babu AM. (2020) “A split face comparative study of safety and efficacy of microneedling with tranexamic acid versus microneedling with Vitamin C in the treatment of melasma”. Indian Dermatol Online J 11:41-5. Available from: https://www.idoj.in/text.asp?2020/11/1/41/261220