Skincare with Friends Ep. 62: Over exfoliation

If you’re a user of The Ordinary’s red peel, it’s likely you have experienced the red sore effects of a damaged moisture barrier. This post goes with an episode of the Skincare with Friends podcast where we discuss the downside of using exfoliating acids regularly- the risk of over exfoliation, how you can use acids safely and what you can do if you are experiencing a damaged moisture barrier. You can listen to the podcast by searching “Skincare with Friends” into your usual podcast provider.

Alpha hydroxy acids are really popular at the moment as a tried and tested anti aging ingredient. They increase skin smoothness, reduce acne, increase collagen production, can aid absorption of other skincare actives. The Ordinary may be partially to blame for offering so many different acids at low low prices. People on chatrooms and forums often asking how they can squeeze in a couple of acids with a retinoid and a vitamin C. All while using a silicone cleansing brush. A couple of weeks later there’ll be another post asking why their skin is also sore or spotty. We’re going to talk about over exfoliation, how it happens and what to do when it does. 

When we use actives to the point where our skin looks worse than it did when we started, it is likely that the skin’s barrier has been damaged. Keep scrolling for some amazing product ideas that will help get you out of your hole.

What is the Moisture Barrier?

The skin’s barrier is formed by living skin cells working their way from the base of the skin to the surface. As the cells progress to the surface, they die off. These dead skin cells (if all is going well) are plump and joined together by bonds called ‘corneodesmosomes’. This layer of anucleate cells is called the stratum corneum. They secrete a fatty substance, called ‘natural moisturising factors’. This top layer of “dead” skin is the bit that does the important job of protecting the inside of your body from the outside world and keeping water in, it’s only half the thickness of a piece of paper. 

Aside from the physical barrier of the keratocytes there are also-

Natural Moisturising Factors from the keratinocytes– amino acids, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), ions (sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, phosphate, chlorine), urea, citrate, sugars and peptides, free fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides ( these are all great ingredients to look for in barrier supportive skincare)

Sebum is produced from oil glands to help form a protective barrier– triglycerides, wax esters, squalene (12%), free fatty acids (sapienic acid), cholesterol, sterol esters, diglycerides

Protective bacteria–In an ideal world the skin has a microbiome of friendly bacteria that help the skin ward off pathogens. When the skin is stressed by chemicals or friction, it becomes a place where these friendly bacteria can no longer thrive and disease causing bacteria can take hold and cause acne and eczema symptoms. Treating the skin barrier correctly will help maintain a healthy biome.

The skin’s acidity– The skin’s pH varies, it is around 5.5, but it could be somewhere in the range of 4.0-6.5 depending on location, sex, age, race and skin health. Generally speaking acidic pH is associated with healthier skin. PH 5.5 ish is the optimum for a healthy microbiome and for the enzymes in the skin to work correctly.

The Damaged Moisture Barrier

So now we know what the skin’s moisturiser barrier is made of, how do we know if there’s a problem with it. 

Symptoms

You might find that your skin feels stingy, tight, sore, it might burn when you apply even the most innocuous product, it could feel rough and look red, your acne or eczema might have worsened. There is also the dreaded crepey tight shiny appearance that is a dead giveaway. 

This is also the appearance of dehydrated skin, because the moisture barrier has become ineffective at keeping water in. 

Possible causes of a damaged moisture barrier–

• Physical exfoliation with scrubs, harsh cleansing cloths, sonic brushes, foreo, Clarisonic 
• Environmental assault- temperature changes, aircon, wind
• Thinning the stratum corneum with retinoids 
• Alpha and beta hydroxy acids especially if used on damp skin
• Sun burn
• Heat trauma (washing face in hot water)
• Irritation from chemicals eg fragrance, vit c

If You’ve Overdone the Acids, What Can You Do To Fix It?

Once you’ve figured out that something is wrong and what might have caused it, it’s time to start the recovery process- 

• First look through the list of likely causes and cut them all out– Heat, abrasion, irritating actives, fragrance, exfoliating acids (hyaluronic acid is fine), DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REINTRODUCE ACTIVES UNTIL YOUR SKIN IS TOTALLY HEALTHY. This could take months (see Rachie Candice who took a year to heal her moisture barrier). 
• Also cut out alcohol toners, clay masks, bar soap, any cleansers that make your skin tight, fragrance, benzoyl peroxide, essential oils eg tea tree
• Next, look at your cleansing, cleansers that share the same pH as your face skin are less stressful for the barrier so cleansers should be around 5.5. Oil, cream or balm cleansers are good too. Cleanse only when necessary and avoid physical cleansers like silicone brushes. 
• Create a barrier centric routine. Stick to hydration, moisturise, spf only. Look for products that contain NMF similar ingredients like glycerin, sodium pca, urea. Make sure your moisturiser contains triglycerides, ceramides and cholesterol to function properly. Vaseline and mineral oil are great because they seal in water very well and don’t react, it’s worth a try and works well for some. 7 skin’s of hydration with fragrance free hydrating toner and an occlusive moisturiser on top. Find soothing ingredients like aloe, bisabolol, oat, panthenol, madecassocide, centella, snail mucin, plant oils, vitamins 
• You might want a humidifier if you live somewhere arid

Actives that you can continue to use when recovering your barrier-

• Peptides
• Vitamin C derivatives
• Niacinamide
• maybe Azelaic Acid, but only if you have already been using it for ages

But cut out acids, vitamin C, retinoids for sure! and don’t try anything new until your skin is totally calm.

Product Recommendations For Treating a Damaged Moisture Barrier

Natalie and Nia recommend these beauties-

• NIOD– SDSM Mist, LVCE cleanser, the amazing Modulating glycosides,
• the Ordinary– Amino acids, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, NMF, Squalane cleanser
• Cerave in a tub
• Aveeno skin relief

From Skincare Addiction Subreddit, most of these are available from Yestyle (use my code NIAPATTEN10 for money off)-

Serums and toners

• Scinic Honey All In One Ampoule
• Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence
• Paula’s Choice Enriched Calming Toner
• Rumase Bifida Snail Toner
• Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Lotion
• Klairs Supple Preparation Toner
• Kiku-Masamune High Moist Lotion
• Benton Aloe BHA Skin Toner
• CosRx Galactic Mice 95 Whitening Power Essence
• Benton Snail Bee High Content Essence
• Innisfree The Green Tea Seed Serum
• Superdrug Simple Hydrating Serum
• Scinic Aqua AIO Ampoule
• Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner
• Pyunkang Yul Moisture Serum
• Cezanne Skin Conditioner High Moist
• Mario Badescu Aloe Vera Toner
• Paula’s Choice Resist Omega+ Complex Serum
• Etude House Soon Jung pH 5.5 Relief Toner
• Whamisa Organic Flowers Deep Rich Essence Toner

Emulsions & light lotions

• Skin Watchers Ceramizing Essence Toner
• Holika Holika Skin & Good Cera Ceramide Ultra Toner
• Thank You Farmer Miracle Age Emulsion
• CosRx Oil-Free Ultra Moisturizing Lotion with Birch Sap
• Nature Republic Snail Solution Emulsion
• Dr. Jart Ceramidin Liquid
• Innisfree Green Tea Moisture Essence

Gels

• Rosette Ceramide Gel
• Hada Labo Premium Hyaluronic Oil Jelly
• Mizon Snail Recovery Gel Cream
• Nature Republic Super Aqua Max Moisture Watery Cream
• Skin Ceramic Donkey Milk Yogurt All-In-One Gel Cream
• Dr Jart+ Water Drop Hydrating Moisturizer
• CosRx Advanced Snail 92 All-In-One Cream
• Belief Aqua Bomb
• Meishoku Ceracolla Perfect Gel

Moisturizers

• CeraVe PM
• L’Oréal Hydra Genius for EXTRA dry skin
• Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Replenishing Moisturizer
• Stratia’s Liquid Gold
• Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Cream
• La Roche Posay Toleriane Rich
• CosRx Honey Ceramide Cream
• CeraVe Baby Moisturizing Lotion
• Donkey Milk 3D Moisture Cream
• Dear By Enprani Bounce Cheese Cream
• Skin Ceramic Donkey Milk & Argan Oil Steam Cream
• Skin Watchers Ceramizing Cream
• Ladykin Vanpir Dark Repair Cream
• Nots Aqua Barrier Level Up Cream
• Holika Holika Skin & Good Cera Super Cream
• First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream
• Trader Joe’s Nourish Antioxidant Facial Moisturizer
• Clinique Moisture Surge Intense Skin Fortifying Hydrator
• Paula’s Choice Clinical Ultra-Rich Moisturizer
• Kiehl’s Creme d’Elegance Repairateur
• Belif Cream Moisturizing Bomb
• Weleda Skin Food
• CeraVe Moisturizing Cream
• Aveeno Skin Relief Moisture Repair Cream

Sleeping packs

• Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalizing Mask
• Too Cool For School Pumpkin Sleeping Pack
• Mediheal EGT Midnight Capping Pack
• CosRx Ultimate Nourishing Rice Overnight Mask
• CosRx Ultimate Moisturizing Honey Overnight Mask
• mix a bit of an occlusive (Vaseline, Aquaphor, or a thick gel like those linked above) in with your PM moisturizer for a DIY sleeping pack

Occlusives

• Vaseline
• Aquaphor
• CeraVe Healing Ointment
• A bit of lanolin (mixed with Vaseline if ya want)
• Shea butter
• Egyptian Magic (good for those sensitive to petroleum jelly)

Thank you for reading and being a part of Skincare with Friends, you can support us by subscribing to our podcast and following on social media. Cheers gang!